The One About the Tower of Terror

January 8: Today is our last full day in Berlin and I feel like I could spend so much more time exploring all the sites here. Thinking back, I’m pretty sure this is the largest city I have seen to date, and it is hard to conceptualize how massive it is. Perhaps the future will bring me another opportunity to visit again.

We woke up early, or what seemed to be early, to venture to the Berlin Jewish Museum. This museum went through the history of the Jewish Tradition and how it has evolved over periods of time. Hands down, this was the coolest museum I have ever seen. The artifacts and ways the information was presented were so artistic and open-ended, fostering a dual purpose of drawing personal meanings with each display. Usually museums strive to communicate simple, straightforward information for the purpose of educating the public. Here, you were expected to analyze material and interpret it. There were two specific rooms that carried out this philosophy perfectly. The first was the Holocaust Tower (or, as my roommate Becca mistook as- The Tower of Terror). It is a remembrance room located on the corner of the museum that is at least five stories high and walled with solid concrete. There is no lighting, heating, or ventilation- only a sliver of natural light coming from the top of the roof and a solid steel door. The purpose of this room is to immerse oneself in a completely isolated state and reflect on the lives of Holocaust victims. The simplicity of the room sparked such complicated feeling and reflections. The second room was called the Fallen Leaves exhibit. This room comprised of a dark, desolate area, however it had more natural light than the Holocaust Tower. The floor was made up of 10,000 steel plates with faces. The purpose of the exhibit is to walk across the faces without making a noise. When doing this, we were forced to look at all the faces, giving it an incredibly creepy effect. The room is hard to describe, but it was SO COOL. All in all, the museum wasn’t too solemn, but it made me think more about how many challenges Judaism has faced over the years.

Later, the group visited Check Point Charlie, a Cold War site where people could cross from East to West Berlin. They are currently building a visitor center of sorts to commemorate the site. The area around Check Point Charlie was very touristy, and to be honest, I was checked-out of Charlie (so punny, right?) and was more worried about being pick-pocketed. So, I didn’t pay that much attention to the information. Oops.

After we finished our class tours, some of us ate lunch and decided to go to the very edge of town to see the East Side Gallery.  The East Side Gallery is composed of a large section of the Berlin Wall that is dedicated to graffiti art. It took us a while to navigate the subway system (and a minor run-in with the Subway ticket police) to find the site, but it was so worth seeing. The double-sided art was incredible and stretched for more than a quarter mile.

We came back to the hotel to discover that another Elon Winter Term trip had arrived in Berlin and were staying at the hotel! I was excited because a couple of my good friends on the trip were able to be there on my birthday. We celebrated it grandly at the Irish Pub…again. It was just too good to go somewhere else.

All in all, great day and an even better birthday!

The One About Our First Camp Visit

January 7: As we approach the one-week mark in our journey, the material and site visits are becoming more and more serious. This has helped us prepare for our first camp visit to Sachsenhausen.

Sachsenhausen was a labor camp that held about 35,000 prisoners. It was a “model camp,” meaning that it was one of the first camps to be constructed and used during the period of the Holocaust. In fact, the construction of this camp was started during the same time of the 1936 Olympics in Berlin.

It’s hard to put into words what I felt when walking around the camp. I think the best way to describe it is to think of putting grief, guilt, shock, exhaustion, and heartbreak into a large pot and creating a sort of emotional potpourri. Its essence was stronger in some locations of the camp than others. Seeing the “Arbeit Macht Frei” sign at the entrance, imagining sleeping in the crammed barracks, walking down to the execution trench, observing the remnants of the crematorium, realizing the open plot of grass at the front of the camp was a mass grave…all of these moments sent chills down my spine.

However, the most powerful moment for me was towards the beginning of the tour. The camp is set up to go at your own pace, so much of the time I was alone with my own thoughts and reactions. I walked through the roll call lawn and faced towards the entrance of the camp, just as the prisoners were forced to do every day, twice a day. They stood there for hours at a time while they were counted and/or awaited their labor orders for the day. I stood facing the electric, barbed-wire fence and tried to comprehend how it might have felt to literally face the barriers that kept me from my freedom. It was unimaginable. I never thought that an eight foot wall and wire could make me feel so small.

Another interesting thing about Sachsenhausen was not the camp itself, but the town around it. In order to get to the camp, we took the subway from Berlin to the end of the line, walked about 15 minutes, and stumbled upon this adorable little street. There were kids walking up and down the side walk, white picket fences, and really nice small German houses. It was at the end of that neighborhood where the entrance to the camp hits you. It was so eerie. How can people live here, so close to historical terror? And more importantly, how could people live here in the past when those events were happening? That put the thought of discrediting the events of the Holocaust in a whole new light.

We rode the subway back to Berlin and grabbed some lunch at Vapiano’s. I had never eaten there before, but it was delicious. I am going to miss European food when I go back to the states, mostly because I don’t have to worry about all the extra fructose-y additives that might be in the meals. I joined a large group to go visit the Pergamon Museum, the site of many tapestries, art pieces, and relics from the Roman, Greek, and Istanbul regions. It was pretty cool, but not as awesome as the Impressionist art pieces in Amsterdam. After that, a group of us went to the Irish Pub and celebrated the start of my “German” birthday, since it was still 6pm back home. The band performing that night sang Happy Birthday to me and three German guys with Miley Cyrus haircuts gave me bear hugs.  It was the perfect way to start what I like to refer to as the “30-hour birthday.”

The One with a Happy Ending

January 6: It’s our first full day in Berlin! I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived here. I knew it was big and full of rich historical meaning, but how can one prepare for its actual cultural impact? The class went on a walking tour to explore some of the important sites of the city, as well as many Holocaust-oriented locations. These sites included, but not limited to, the Holocaust Memorial, the site of Hitler’s bunker, Brandenburg Gate, the Berlin Wall, the Roosevelt Plate. Unfortunately for me, I was sick that day, so my perceptions of the city were only as good as the reactions of my peers.

After the tour concluded, the class went to the Topography of Terror museum in the heart of the city. This museum’s content is exactly as it seems, focusing on the terror that was conducted during WWII. The history of the museum is interesting in itself. The location of the museum is the former headquarters of the Gestapo and the SS, adding to the emotional connection between their missions and actions. I also found it interesting that the museum is enclosed in a glass square building, but is surrounded by the grungy ruins of the headquarters. They did this on purpose to not glorify the meaning of the site, but remind the public of its terrorizing history.

I was pretty upset that I wasn’t able to go on the tour. Truth be told, if I did spend the entire day outside is the sleety cold weather, I probably would have been worse-off. I felt fine after a few hours of sleep, so what better thing to do than people watch?! I sat in the lobby and pretended to read a book while observing how Germans behave.

No, this is not creepy. It’s a cultural study.

I immediately noticed that those in the lobby were staring at me while I was sitting in the corner reading my book, as if it is not customary to read in that sort of environment. The bartender soon approached me and offered to make me a drink, however when I politely declined his offering, he gave a small snort and walked away looking annoyed. This is when it started to sink-in that Berlin was going to be much different than Amsterdam, for more reasons than the country location.

Side note: My luggage arrived! I don’t live up to my nickname of Smelly Kelly anymore! Winning!

The One Where We Drive to Berlin

January 5: Today was a chill day for us. We woke up early, packed the bus and headed to Berlin! The drive took about 7 hours, however most of the bus was dead asleep for at least half of that time.

The drive across Germany reminded me so much of Ohio. It was cold and rainy the entire time and the landscape consisted of rolling acres of farm land, with small villages clustered together. Immediately, we could all notice the houses are different than in the states because the roofs are sharply pointed and are a rusty color orange. We also spotted the passage gates that divided East and West Germany. They remain as a memorial of sorts. The abandoned buildings looked completely normal to one’s eye, but their historical meanings hushed the bus as we drove past.

After a long trip, we made it to Berlin! I’m excited to see this city in the daylight and put my less-than-adequate German to good use!

The One in the Secret Hiding Place

January 4: There is one Holocaust victim that everyone can relate to on some level. Her words have changed the way we perceive the constant fear and the unknown for those who lived in during this time. For two years and one month, the Franks, and a four other residents, lived in hiding from the Nazis. Today, we got to visit the secret annex.

I was very anxious to visit the Anne Frank House. Not only because I am using her as part of my final research paper for this course, but because I did not know what to expect. I had a similar feeling when my family and I traveled to Arlington National Cemetery. I knew that visiting this house might bring up some emotions, but would they debilitate my ability to absorb all the information the site has to offer? There was only one way to find out.

We walked about 20 minutes from our hotel to bypass the already lengthy line at the entrance of the house. We learned that the entrance is located two buildings to the right of the actual house, and all three buildings are used for museum purposes. Our class came together to learn about the history of the Franks and how they eventually went into hiding. The building was home to Otto Frank’s jam making business. However, when the Nazis came to the Netherlands, he had to give his business to a fellow colleague. It turns out he also prepared the “Secret Annex” for almost a year before the family went into hiding. It was located on the third, fourth, and fifth floors of the back house of the business. There, the Franks and others in hiding spent their days in silence and utter anomnynity. The account of these silent and shut-in days passing by provides us of what we now know as the Diary of Anne Frank.

Walking through the house was incredibly educational. We started in the museum portion, learning about the annex, the preludes to hiding, and personal accounts of those closest to the Frank family. Corresponding quotes from the diary cascaded the walls and put everything into better perspective. The annex itself was not quite what I expected. The curtains were drawn and it was dark inside, giving a more real-life illusion to what environment they lived in for over two years. After walking through the annex, the walk looped back around to information about what happened to the Franks after they were discovered. Some video accounts show interviews of people who saw Anne and her sister in the concentration camp. Anne died one month before the camp was liberated; Otto was the only Frank to survive. The tour then lead to the display of Anne’s original diary, and all the other notebooks and loose-leaf paper she used to write her story. She wrote the diary for the intent of having it be published, and today, the Diary of Anne Frank can be read over 60 languages.

We all surfaced to the daylight with an even greater sense of their ordeal. The line to go inside was probably a quarter of a mile long, so we were all thankful to have had reservations. I went with a group to walk around Amsterdam a final time. Becca and I also took the advantage of time to visit the Rijksmuseum. They had a collection of Rembrants, and once again, I was trying not to drool all over the floor…

We concluded the evening with a class meeting to debrief about the day’s activities. My professors then helped me track down my luggage. It took almost an hour, but we learned it was en route to London and was to arrive in Amsterdam exactly three hours after we are to depart. So close, yet still so far! It will be forwarded to Berlin; fingers crossed I get it in a couple days.

Amsterdam was not at all what I expected it to be and I had a great time exploring the city with my classmates.

The One with the Cow Clogs

January 3: Today was our first day to travel and visit sites as a group. After we enjoyed yet another breakfast, we loaded the bus and started our busy day. Our tour guide, Anika, talked nonstop about the architecture, history, uses, and little-did-you-know facts about the different neighborhoods and buildings in Amsterdam. The city itself almost resembles a NYC atmosphere, where the different areas maintain their own styles and personas. The outskirts of the city are house all the cool looking buildings. The modern architecture of each new establishment seems to get more cutting-edge than the previous.

After a quick bus tour of the city, we drove about 20 minutes to find ourselves in Zaanstad, an open museum containing windmills and small Dutch houses. This museum was created to educate visitors on why the windmill is so important to the Netherlands. In essence, these buildings would help craftsmen cut wood, make mustard, and countless other tasks. Today, approximately 1,000 windmills still exist in the Netherlands. Although they are not the primary source of energy used today (natural gas is), residents and volunteers who care for the windmills, by law, must turn the wings at least once a month to maintain the mechanism.

Zaanstad is also home to cheese making and wooden clog making demonstration sites. We learned about how the cheese is made and how long it takes for each kind to mature. It was ok, but the best parts were seeing the ladies in their traditional garb and the taste tests. The Dutch make great cheese! We also saw the wooden glob demonstration. Back in the old days, single clog could be whittled in 3-5 hours. Today, it can be made in 5 minutes, with the help of French and German machinery. Why are wooden clogs such an important part of the Dutch tradition? It goes back to the material of the clog. These clogs are made from two different kinds of wood. One escapes me, but the other is Willow. These types of woods are incredibly durable and are naturally waterproof, making for a great pair of working shoes. They had a cow print pair of clogs in the gift shop that would have been perfect for Dad, but seeing that I still don’t have luggage, I didn’t feel in the mood to deal with the “Why is that girl carrying cow clogs” stares at the airport. Sorry Pops, next time!

After we visited Zaanstad, we went back on the bus for our walking tour of Amsterdam. We began in the Jewish neighborhood (home of where their ghetto was) and explored the city for a couple hours. Amsterdam was pretty easy to navigate, however the masses of people and the constant fear that a bike or tram would run you over was a little distracting.

After the walking tour concluded, my roommate, Becca, and I grabbed some lunch and headed to what I like to refer to the museum from heaven:the Hermitage. Their current collections included the works from Impressionists painters, like Renoir and Monet, as well as a vast collection of Van Gogh. I actively had to keep my mouth from dropping to the floor with every new painting that I saw. Amazing!

Tomorrow we are starting to get into our more Holocaust-focused site visits, so I am glad that I we had the opportunity to experience the city in a more unstructured way.

The One Where Kelly is Washing Her Socks in the Sink

Written on January 2, 2013

I write this at the end of a very exhausting, yet exciting day. Twenty hours of travel time, followed by eight hours of exploring seems like a lot, but right now it seems so surreal to even be in Europe. Today has challenged me, taught me so many valuable lessons, and has surprised me in more ways than one.

Challenges: Well, the first a biggest challenge for me came early in the trip. My checked luggage didn’t make it to JFK airport. Bummer. Luckily I packed all of my essentials and an extra pair of clothes in my carry-on. Though frustrating, I am almost glad this happened to me early in the trip. This journey is meant to be full of lessons and realizations, reinforcing our perceptions of want vs. need and human necessity. My socks are all washed-up for tomorrow’s adventures- bring it!

Lessons: It’s been a few years since travelling in Europe, but some European realities came back to me as soon as the plane’s wheels hit the ground. First: there are line-cutters everywhere. Second: watch out for the bicycles. Third: NOTHING has corn syrup in it. Yes, I ate a full meal and did not feel sick for the first time in years (hallelujah). It’s amazing how a small thing like that can make a world of a difference.

Surprises: Since we arrived in Amsterdam early this afternoon, we did not have a lot of time to come together as a large group and conduct our Holocaust studies. Instead, we were given the day to explore this beautiful and unique city. This place is so cool. The architecture, the artistic influences, the history in general- it’s all mind blowing! Besides walking around the town taking pictures and altogether gawking over every cool thing in sight, some friends and I took advantage of the Heineken museum that is located about ten minutes away from the hotel. There, we learned about the history of this independent brewery and enjoyed lots of free samples. The museum was incredibly engaging. I’m not one to buy lots of souvenirs, but I indulged in a personalized bottle to take home.

It’s shaping up to be a great experience! 

The One About the Journey

Every family is not without their traditions. Each holiday, my cousins gather together (no, we are not at all mischievous), stuff our faces with savory delights…and watch aged (no, classic) Mary Kate and Ashley movies. This tradition not only allows us to reminisce about holidays past, but reinforces how much we have grown over the course of our lives.

So why do I mention this unique and, frankly, strange tradition? Luck should have it that this year’s MKA movie selection was a flick entitled, Getting There. For those of you who are not aware of the plot line, Getting There is based on the girls’ difficult adventure to go see the 2002 Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City.  In a nutshell: their car gets stolen, hearts are broken, and they get stranded in a lot of random places. They eventually end up at their destination and enjoy what time is left for the games. At the end of the movie, Mary Kate utters the underlying moral of the film, “It’s about the journey, not the destination.”

As soon as she spoke those words, in that teeny-bop drawl of hers, I instantly thought about the journey I am to begin on January 1^st. As part of the Holocaust Journey class, I will be joining 29 fellow students and 2 professors to venture across Europe to learn about the horrific and important intricacies of this solemn time period. We will be visiting a total of four countries: The Netherlands, Germany, Poland and the Czech Republic. Some of our stops will include the Anne Frank House, the Jewish National Museum, Sachsenhausen, Auschwitz, Treblinka, the Jewish Ghetto in Prague, the Nuremberg Courthouse and many other locations.

Many have asked me why I wanted to be a part of such a “downer” trip. Yes, the content is almost unbearable to comprehend, but there is so much more to this journey than the destinations. I have been blessed with an incredible life, one that provides me with a college education, 21^st century luxuries, and a loving family that protects me every day. My sense of loss is minimal at best, and I have never been put into a situation where my basic human instincts intervene. I know that I live in a world where this is not the case in every person’s life. Just this past month, America was shocked when shots were fired at rescue crews and innocent children were killed in their own classrooms. Senseless horror is still a reality in our lives, so isn’t it important to make an effort to learn and think forward?  I believe that it is important to analyze the past, recognize the present, and use our knowledge to better the future. If we all could accomplish this feat, who knows what our world could become?

I am not a writer by any means. In fact, some of you can personally vouch that I tend to get grumpy when I am forced to write. However, I am taking on this blog as a challenge to share my experiences at as many as these sites as I can. I hope that we can all not only learn from the significance of these destinations, but develop throughout the journey.

And now, to pack. Auf wiedersehn!